The Poltimore Arms at Yarde Down is tucked away off the road between South M
olton and Simonsbath, and so this sign wisely sticks out of the hedge to warn the thirsty traveller of its presence around the corner. Opposite there is a convenient indent in which the truck could park snugly. “Delectare in Domino” – “Delight in the Lord” - is the motto of the Barons Poltimore, who were once big cheeses in this part of the world. When Lord Poltimore in the 1940’s divided his hunting country between the Dulverton Farmers and the Dulverton West, it still produced two very sizeable hunks of land. Even today the latter pack hunts three days a week anywhere between Withypool in the east and the sea at Braunton in the west.
The Poltimores’ motto comes from a psalm which continues, “Et dabit tibi petitiones cordis tui…” – “Delight in the Lord and he will give you what your heart seeks.” As we walked away up Sherracombe Lane, we could feel that He indeed had granted all our wishes that morning. It was a beautifully sunny autumn day and, with crystal-clear air flooding down from the north, we were blessed with far-reaching views to the south over Devon.
The track soon led us to Sherracombe Ford where a sign informed us that there had once been an iron bloomery here, obvious from the smelting’s surviving spoil heaps. Well, they probably were there, and probably they were obvious to the archaeologists who had excavated the site a few years previously, but we blinked and still missed this detritus from Celtic-Romano industry. 
It hardly mattered because, as we ascended the almost perpendicular footpath which led away northwards from the track, we were not only blessed with a marvellous view down the combe, but we found ourselves above two circling buzzards as they soared and gyred above the sunlit valley. 
Sadly, every attempt to capture the moment with our little digital camera failed, but soon the mewing raptors, now joined by a third, were mobbed by a squadron of rooks.
The ascent eventually levelled off somewhat and we reached the ridge road between Mole’s Chamber and Kinsford Gate. We turned right on to the road and walked along it a little way before turning right into another track which skirted Five Barrows Hill. The farming on these favoured southern slopes is more prosperous than in the middle of Exmoor and, although there are several farm tracks for getting across the country, there are few footpaths and bridle ways. It is a pleasure to walk along them nonetheless, and when we reached Five Barrows Cross, we went straight across and along the lane until we reached Span Head.
Here we turned right down another farm track which led us south towards the hamlet of Bentwitchen. Again the view was superb and stretched as far as the brooding shadows of the northern slopes of Dartmoor.
Near the foot of the track a farmer, with the aid of a tractor battery, was shearing sheep. A little further on we came into Bentwitchen, a sleepy huddle of farms, barns, and cottages. 
We walked westwards along the narrow lane, over a stream crossed by the “Irish Champion’s Bridge” as it was named on the map. What fabulous story could lay behind this extraordinary name? We passed a couple of farms, one receiving a major make-over, but not a single vehicle passed us.
We eventually came out into the South Molton-Simonsbath road, but even on this highway we met fewer than half a dozen cars as we turned right and climbed back towards the Poltimore Arms. We had been expecting the approach of a tractor for some time but, as the sound of a diesel engine grew louder but one of John Deer’s finest never appeared, the explanation finally dawned on us. It was the pub’s generator in full swing. The Poltimore Arms does not enjoy mains electricity, nor mains water, nor mains anything for that matter. We had once enjoyed an atmospheric evening at the pub when a burst pipe had shorted out the electrics, and we had dined by the light of the roaring fire and some candles.
There is everything to like about this splendid pub. New landlords have given the old bar a lick of paint but otherwise nothing has changed. 
Here’s a place where you can sit beneath the pictures of the old timers who have used the pub over the years and of meets of hounds, and enjoy a pint in front of the fire. The beer is still tapped straight from the barrel. We had two excellent pints of Betty Stoggs, brewed by Skinners of Truro, a very decent traditional bitter at 4%. Litehouse, from the Forge Brewery, was also available.
An archway leads through to a small dining room furnished with scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The blackboard in the bar offers a wide selection of good grub at reasonable prices.
We had supper here just after the new people, from nearby North Molton, took over, and it remains one of our favourite places to eat out. On this occasion we were enjoying a liquid lunch, but Alan and Pauline Lockwood gave us a very friendly welcome. Good luck to them! Opening hours at present are Tuesday to Saturday, 12.00 pm to 2.30 pm and 5.30 pm to 11.00 pm; Sundays 12.00 pm to 3.00 pm; closed Sunday evening and all day Monday.
olton and Simonsbath, and so this sign wisely sticks out of the hedge to warn the thirsty traveller of its presence around the corner. Opposite there is a convenient indent in which the truck could park snugly. “Delectare in Domino” – “Delight in the Lord” - is the motto of the Barons Poltimore, who were once big cheeses in this part of the world. When Lord Poltimore in the 1940’s divided his hunting country between the Dulverton Farmers and the Dulverton West, it still produced two very sizeable hunks of land. Even today the latter pack hunts three days a week anywhere between Withypool in the east and the sea at Braunton in the west.The Poltimores’ motto comes from a psalm which continues, “Et dabit tibi petitiones cordis tui…” – “Delight in the Lord and he will give you what your heart seeks.” As we walked away up Sherracombe Lane, we could feel that He indeed had granted all our wishes that morning. It was a beautifully sunny autumn day and, with crystal-clear air flooding down from the north, we were blessed with far-reaching views to the south over Devon.
The track soon led us to Sherracombe Ford where a sign informed us that there had once been an iron bloomery here, obvious from the smelting’s surviving spoil heaps. Well, they probably were there, and probably they were obvious to the archaeologists who had excavated the site a few years previously, but we blinked and still missed this detritus from Celtic-Romano industry. It hardly mattered because, as we ascended the almost perpendicular footpath which led away northwards from the track, we were not only blessed with a marvellous view down the combe, but we found ourselves above two circling buzzards as they soared and gyred above the sunlit valley. Sadly, every attempt to capture the moment with our little digital camera failed, but soon the mewing raptors, now joined by a third, were mobbed by a squadron of rooks.The ascent eventually levelled off somewhat and we reached the ridge road between Mole’s Chamber and Kinsford Gate. We turned right on to the road and walked along it a little way before turning right into another track which skirted Five Barrows Hill. The farming on these favoured southern slopes is more prosperous than in the middle of Exmoor and, although there are several farm tracks for getting across the country, there are few footpaths and bridle ways. It is a pleasure to walk along them nonetheless, and when we reached Five Barrows Cross, we went straight across and along the lane until we reached Span Head.
Here we turned right down another farm track which led us south towards the hamlet of Bentwitchen. Again the view was superb and stretched as far as the brooding shadows of the northern slopes of Dartmoor.
Near the foot of the track a farmer, with the aid of a tractor battery, was shearing sheep. A little further on we came into Bentwitchen, a sleepy huddle of farms, barns, and cottages. We walked westwards along the narrow lane, over a stream crossed by the “Irish Champion’s Bridge” as it was named on the map. What fabulous story could lay behind this extraordinary name? We passed a couple of farms, one receiving a major make-over, but not a single vehicle passed us.We eventually came out into the South Molton-Simonsbath road, but even on this highway we met fewer than half a dozen cars as we turned right and climbed back towards the Poltimore Arms. We had been expecting the approach of a tractor for some time but, as the sound of a diesel engine grew louder but one of John Deer’s finest never appeared, the explanation finally dawned on us. It was the pub’s generator in full swing. The Poltimore Arms does not enjoy mains electricity, nor mains water, nor mains anything for that matter. We had once enjoyed an atmospheric evening at the pub when a burst pipe had shorted out the electrics, and we had dined by the light of the roaring fire and some candles.
There is everything to like about this splendid pub. New landlords have given the old bar a lick of paint but otherwise nothing has changed. Here’s a place where you can sit beneath the pictures of the old timers who have used the pub over the years and of meets of hounds, and enjoy a pint in front of the fire. The beer is still tapped straight from the barrel. We had two excellent pints of Betty Stoggs, brewed by Skinners of Truro, a very decent traditional bitter at 4%. Litehouse, from the Forge Brewery, was also available.An archway leads through to a small dining room furnished with scrubbed wooden tables and chairs. The blackboard in the bar offers a wide selection of good grub at reasonable prices.
We had supper here just after the new people, from nearby North Molton, took over, and it remains one of our favourite places to eat out. On this occasion we were enjoying a liquid lunch, but Alan and Pauline Lockwood gave us a very friendly welcome. Good luck to them! Opening hours at present are Tuesday to Saturday, 12.00 pm to 2.30 pm and 5.30 pm to 11.00 pm; Sundays 12.00 pm to 3.00 pm; closed Sunday evening and all day Monday.
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